Mt Baker Vapor vapor production

Hi everyone!
Just got my first order from MT Baker Vapor yesterday. Cinnamon Roll, German Chocolate Beefcake, and Blue Moo. I’ve been vaping the cinnamon roll (100% PG, 18mg, 2 extra shots) for almost a full day now and there is very little vapor on the exhale, if any at all. The throat hit and flavor are both great. This isn’t a major concern, it just feels weird when I exhale after a hit and nothing comes out. Has anyone else ran into this with their juice? Any thoughts on why this is happening? :confused: It’s honestly baffling me. I am running the same setup I have for the past year with many different juices and I have never ran into this.

Need some advice from some fellow vapers.

Hello people i have some question that i hope i can get some help on. First things first i have been vaping for a steady 4 years now but just recently i have began to get in to the cloud chasing. I have done plenty of homework on it and i have decided to buy a set up for myself. like most i started with those cheap starter pens that sucked. Now i am vaping on a Muraxas mod with a stellair RDA on it sorry for typos. I have a sony VTC4 battery in it i want to be safe and i have a single parallel coil build in it that is currently reading .29 ohms yes that is low and is pushing the safety quite a bit. But the clouds are amazing and the flavor is good. I forgot to mention i am using 24g kanthal. I do not recommend going this low with a sub ohm to anybody but people are going to do as they please either way the only thing i can recommend is using the safest batteries you can. Now my question is what battery is the safest for dropping the ohm down to .1 ohm. I DO NOT plan to do this i just have been looking into it for the education but i cant seem to get a direct answer anywhere. Now to me that could possibly be all the veteran vapers coming together to say dont sub ohm that low ever. But if anyone has an answer that would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I plan to bring my ohm up to about .4 .5.. Thank you all.

CLT driving me insane! Need help!

I’ve been using RDAS for the better part of this year, and am definitely experienced with many different models, coil builds, etc. I have been using an Infinite CLT for the last few weeks. In the past couple of days, it has started to drive me nuts. I only use dual coil builds, and no matter what I do I cannot get the coils to glow evenly. One always heats up before the other. I know it’s not the coils themselves, so that’s inconsequential to the problem. I’ve checked all connections and they seem tight, no wire snapping or anything, and no hot legs. Heeeelllllp! Can’t figure this out.

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Kayfun + MVP = suck

Hello, have owned an itaste MVP for a while and went from using protank with purchased coils to rebuilding protank coils. Then got a protank 3 and a mini protank 3 and rebuilt. Then a taifun GS rebuildable, and finally a kayfun rebuildable. I have had no luck with this kayfun. I am going to return it but the thought crossed my mind, maybe the kayfun sucks because of my itaste MVP? I have made about 10 or 15 coils (micro, chimney, cotton, peaches and cream) and every time it has crap flavor and hardly any vapor. Spent a long time on this forum and YouTube hoping to find a BUILD that worked when now I feel my problem was my DEVICE the whole time. Could I be right?

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Coil resistance for regulated PVs?

I was going through my old vape stuff the other day, sorting it to see what I could sell, when I came across my old iTaste SVD. I’ve pretty much moved to mechanicals at this point, but I decided to throw a coil in a Kayfun and run it on the SVD one more time for nostalgia value. That SVD was my mainstay for a long time.

When I went to plan the build, and applied what I’ve learned about coil building since I gave up the SVD for mechs, it occurred to me that I might have been building the coils wrong on the SVD all that time. I was building coils in Aerotanks and Kayfuns at around the 1.5-1.3 range, thinking that lower resistance would create more heat, as it would with a mech. However, I think I might actually have been limiting my SVD’s output. I could be wrong here, so check my logic:

With a mech, lower resistance = more watts for the given voltage = more heat. This is because battery voltage is a constant, sort of – it decreases as the battery dies, but every time you hit the mech’s fire button, the battery‘s giving you whatever it was designed to put out. Your atomizer resistance is the controllable variable. APVs, however, have a range of voltage and wattage outputs. For example:

iTaste SVD
Voltage range: 3V-6V
Wattage range: 3W-15W

Now, let’s say you put a 1.5 ohm atty on the SVD in variable wattage mode. You’ll be able to get the full 15 watts of power to the coil, because in order to get 15W on a 1.5 ohm coil, you only need 4.74ish volts, which is well below the SVD’s 6 volt limit. However, if you switch over to variable voltage mode and crank it up all the way to 6, then it’s still only going to push 4.74ish volts to the coil – because if it did push more, it would be pushing more than 15 watts to the coil, and 15 watts is over the circuitry’s limit. Too low resistance = a loss of potential voltage range.

The same thing happens in reverse if you use a resistance that’s too high. For example, put a 3 ohm atty on there, and you’ll never reach 15 watts – at the SVD’s max 6 volts, you’ll only be able to push the coil at 12 watts. Doesn’t matter the mode you’re in – voltage mode only goes up to 6 volts, and in wattage mode you can set it to 15, but the device will only be pushing 12.

In order to get the full range of voltage and wattage on the SVD, I have to build my coils to 2.4 ohms, because it takes 6 volts to push a 2.4 ohm coil to 15 watts – the most the SVD can handle in either volts or watts.

As I said before, with mechs the controllable variable is atty resistance and battery voltage is the constant. With APVs, the battery voltage is the variable – so the atty resistance should be a constant, unless there is some other reason to run a different resistance coil. I would assume a 1.5 ohm coil and a 2.4 ohm coil of the same gauge wire, run at the same wattage will result in the same heat?

I guess the point of all this is, why isn’t it common knowledge to build coil resistance on an <acronym title="Advanced Personal Vaporizer, aka mod“>APV to match it’s full output range?

Or is it, and I just missed it? :tongue:

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