Rejuiced Kings peach £1.25

Re<a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juiced <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice of the week <a href="https://re<a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>” target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”>https://re<a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”> Fill your boots

stentorian AT-7! Mech it up without blowing the face off! The Hillbilly abides… (a review)

OK, so the good folks at Heaven Gifts also wanted my opinion on another new toy they have – the <a href="”>Stentorian AT-7. Now, this puppy is one secksi beastie! It's advertised as a 100W mod, but that's not exactly the case. Frankly, high watts sells, so that's what they're marketing. And this mod is all about the pop. It's made up to look like a water-cooled PC with a side window and LED lights. I have to admit, when I was told I was being sent this, I thought "This thing is all show and no go. What a f'n waste." And as the last educated Hillbilly left in captivity, I can be one pig-headed (that's "stubborn" for those of you that don't speak hillbilly), intractable cuss. But this mod changed my mind, actually.

For you folks in the know, this bad boy is a "hybrid" (not a hybrid top-cap) – it's a regulated mod that acts like a mech. It's got a 3500mah LiPo (they say "RC Quadcopter battery", so I'm assuming a 3S, but I don't know enough about LiPo's to be sure). So it's giving you a straight 4.2v, from your first hit to your last, and the wattage is according to the build you're using, But wait, there's more! For those of you leery of using a mech, it's got all of this:

*American A/T Chipset

*10 second protection

*overheat protection

*low-voltage warning

*overcharge protection

So the trick with this puppy is to build like you're building for a mech. I have some experience with this, not a ton, but this mod is very forgiving. Here is an album of pics for you. I have two great builds I found for this mod: a .42 build in the Goon pictured – simple twisted 2x28g kanthal, 6 wraps/side 3mm I.D., and a .33 build in my Conqueror mini, a dual 5 wrap alien that powderboy build for me a while back, on a 2.5mm mandrel. This is the key to this mod. Just like with any other "semi-regulated" or mechanical device, you build to your power source. You can use a tank on this, but it must wick quickly. The Wotofo Flow did a great job on this, as did the Conqueror mini. If it doesn't wick quickly you're gonna get dry hits, because this mod throws 4.2 volts from the first bump of that button.

When I say "fire button", it's really a bar. That's right, one whole side of the mod is the fire button. It's got two springs under it and rocks over a button in the center, so any place you press is going to fire the mod. And it gives wonderfully consistent power. I tried a few different builds on it. The mod has a .1 ohm cutoff, so you can't get too crazy, but anything over that and it's golden. I tried several different builds on that Goon (by the way, no overhang, and the 510 sticks up maybe 2/10ths of a mm over the top of the case. This means your atties won't scratch.) but that twisted kanthal was the best one by far. it gave me lots of battery life. 6+ hours, and I chain vape. That's what this mod likes best – a fast-wicking build between .2 and .5. This gave a warm, dense vape.

I ended up actually liking this mod, once I found a couple builds that worked well on it. But that's the key. If you don't build, then quite frankly, I don't think this mod is for you. It's not adjustable in any way. When it's charged, you hit the button and it gives you 4.2 volts. It's a one-trick pony, but my goodness it does that trick more consistently than you can ever imagine. The last hit before you kill the battery is the exact same as the first hit after you unplug it (BTW – will NOT work as a pass-through).

Summary/TL;DR – If you like mechs and semi-regulated devices, and like to build, then this is a niche mod you'll probably like. It looks good, lights up like a Christmas tree, is extremely well-made and applies good, consistent power no matter where you are in the battery charge. It's big and attention-getting – a nice conversation piece.

Cons – must use a dripper or very quick-wicking tank. No adjustments whatsoever. It's big. You see the pic above next to the Pico. I have pretty big hands and it's about the biggest mod I can comfortably use.

I ended up liking this mod. With the right build, it's great. You don't have the usual worries as with a mech, of knowing when to pull your batteries, or how much stress you're putting on them.

submitted by /u/mountaineer30680
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Turbo RDTA-L Review! An RDA and RDTA Combo? – Darksun Vapes

Good day fellow vapers, today I’m going to be reviewing the Turbo RDTA-L by Vaptio. Disclaimer: I was provided this product for the purpose of this review by Vaptio.


I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I’m a huge fan of RDTAs. RDTAs get the drip aspect of an RDA and the tank aspect of an RTA, making them a perfect choice for on-the-go and at home use. However, this RDTA is a little bit different. It is a RDTA/RDA combo! This “combo RDTA” has been done before in other attys but none of them have the unique spitback guard that is found in the Turbo-L.

The Turbo RDTA-L is a dual coil combo 25mm atty with a velocity-style build deck and large capacity.


  • Size: 25mm x 57mm (including drip tip – RDTA) & 25mm x 46mm (including drip tip – RDA)

  • Capacity: 5.5ml

  • Material: stainless steel, glass

  • Colors: Black, Stainless Steel, Rose Gold


  • Turbo-L RDTA

  • RDA conversion base

  • 4x Clapton Coil

  • Spare parts – o-rings, hex screws, glass tank, proprietary drip trip

  • L-shape allen key

  • Quality control card and user manual


The first thing that I had to check out was the Shield-Tech anti-spitback guard. It is about as wide as a 510 connection and goes into the chamber approx. 5mm deep. If you thought that this RDTA was abnormally taller, this one of the reasons why (the other being the large capacity tank). The way the guard works is that it has a flat base directly below the drip tip that’s suspended from the top of the chamber. Along the side there are 4 openings to allow the vapor to travel up through the drip tip. So when I take a vape after dripping, the hot <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice will hit the bottom of the guard and not reach my mouth. Overall, I think it is a fantastic design. It is so simple and it does the job.

With the Turbo-L in RDTA and in RDA modes, the 510 pin does not protrude enough to be safely used in hybrid mechanical mod. Speaking of the different modes, I found it interesting that the RDA mode is not a true RDA per se. In order to get the conversion base on so that it seals at the bottom, it leaves about a 1.5ml (depending on wicks) <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice well. More on this later.

The threading and general craftsmanship of the Turbo-L is solid. There were no issues taking apart everything making it very easy to clean. The hex screws are durable and the amount of airflow the Turbo-L has is well above what’s needed. Regarding the airflow, there is no way to only close off one (plus no deck plug) for a single coil build. Finally, the drip tip on the Turbo-L is unique to the device and it cannot support additional 510/810 drip tips on top like the Medusa RDTA. Additionally the top cap does not support 510/810 drip tips as well.


Building on the Turbo-L is as easy as it gets and there are no differences when using it in RDTA and RDA modes. With the velocity deck and the abundant deck space, there were zero issues using even the beefiest of coils. I will say that this is a go big or go home device as the Turbo-L is very build dependent in order to get good flavor. Building below 3mm ID is not recommended and 4mm ID can work with smaller exotic builds. I settled at 3.5mm ID as the sweet spot for most of my larger exotic builds with good success.

My reasoning for this is simple, the chamber is much larger than normal RDTAs due to the spitback guard and it needs more vapor production to compensate. It’s a very similar situation when building on the Goon, as too little of a build will result in heavily muted flavor. As I mentioned before, the airflow is more than adequate to work with anything that’s installed. Honestly, there was not a single build that I used where I left the airflow 100% open. Even with a 3.5mm ID spaced fused clapton build, my airflow was only 40% open.

To get even more flavor, the coils need to be raised so that the airflow hits underneath the coil. With a 3mm ID build the coils can easily rest above the airflow so that only a sliver is seen, but 3.5mm and 4mm ID builds will need to be a little bit lower due to their size. Because of the spitback guard, raising the coils above the velocity deck will cause proximity issues and decrease the quality of the vape. The main concern is the amount of heat that it causes. If the coils are too close, it will cause the guard to heat up and result in an overheated vape. I recommend not going any higher than 1mm above the velocity deck’s top posts to reduce the amount of heat transfer.


Wicking the Turbo-L is one of the easier RDTAs I’ve dealt with. The deck style is very similar to the Medusa RDTA but without the locking top cap. The wick channels are quite large and are perfect for larger ID builds. When wicking as an RDTA, I recommend lot letting the wicks go any further than 2-3mm into the tank. With the RDA conversion, I recommend having the wicks go all the way to the base.

Due to the larger wick channels, over-stuffing and causing the wicks to choke are near-impossible (which is a main concern for most RDTA users). However, there is a flipside to this. Because of the nature of an RDTA, in order to keep the wicks saturated the tank must be tilted on its side and if the wicks do not fill the entire channel the tank will leak. To help alleviate this issue always, always make sure to fluff the ends of the wicks before stuffing. Additionally, wicking methods like the Scottish roll excel in situations like this. Note that even in RDA mode, the wicks still need to completely fill the channel to prevent <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice from pooling in the small well.


The refill opening is located along the side of the tank and can be used with smaller droppers and plastic unicorn-like bottles. However, I did have some issues with larger plastic bottles and drippers because a small portion of the deck blocks a part of the opening. It can be done but it is not terribly efficient as some of the <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice will be lost along the sides of the tank.

To get the most out of the tank, make sure that it’s tilted so that the fill opening is looking straight up. The website notes that the capacity is 5ml but with this trick I was able to get in another 0.5ml into it with ease.

As an RDTA, it is fairly straightforward as it is easy to see when the <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice level is below the fill opening. It’s a little bit trickier in the RDA mode though. Since there is no way to notice how much is left, it’s best to orientate the Vaptio logo so that you know where the fill opening is. Once you locate it, by tilting it upwards will eliminate the chance for <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice to accidently spill out when the cap is removed.


In the end, the Turbo-L is just a large capacity RDTA and a small capacity RDTA in one. It’s along the same lines as having a bigger and smaller glass tank to use with it. In “RDA” mode, the spitback guard prevents from dripping onto the deck efficiently through the drip tip and with the <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice well being below the deck makes it challenging to work with. Note that the guard can be removed but that’s the key component that makes the Turbo-L unique. That’s like removing the cylinder barrel on a revolver or taking away the air pump/LEDs on a pair of sneakers.

All that said, the Turbo-L should be used as a full RDTA as there is no reason not to. 5.5ml capacity is quite nice and the spitback guard is a pretty amazing addition. With the proper build installed, the flavor is great. I would rate the Turbo-L’s flavor production just slightly below the Gaia RDTA, which is my all-time favorite RDTA. The only difference is that in the Gaia I only need a 3mm ID exotic at 70ish watts for maximum flavor compared to a 3.5mm ID exotic at 95ish watts in the Turbo-L. With any exotic build, there is always <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice popping and the Shield-Tech guard does the job every time. Actually, in the 2.5 weeks of use I’ve never once gotten hot <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice in my mouth. Try to say that about any other RDTA on the market.

However, there is one downside to the Shield-Tech guard. While it prevents spitback, it actually accelerates <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice creep. <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice creep is when vapor condensation forms in the chamber and/or in the drip tip and slowly “creeps” towards the top of the drip tip when vaping. Due to the guard, it makes it easy for condensation to accumulate inside the shield and in the drip tip. Not to mention that the inside of the chamber gets a good coat of condensation too. Also because the Turbo-L is an RDTA, I have to tilt it when using, or else I’ll get dry hits and that helps the condensation creep even more. One of the easiest methods to fix <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice creep is to use a wider drip tip but because of the proprietary design this is not an option. That leaves only one preventive measure and it is to wipe off the condensation forming in the chamber every so often. With heavy use, it needs to be wiped out at least twice daily.

Overall, the build quality is good and the hex screws are durable. The velocity-style deck and ample deck space makes building and wicking very easy, even to non-RDTA users, and the airflow will easily cater to any build installed. The proprietary drip tip is always a bad design choice in my book, and it would be nice having a different drip tip as the top cap does get hot when chain vaping.


  • Fantastic flavor with the proper build

  • Shield-Tech spitback guard

  • Easy to build/wick on

  • Large capacity

  • Spare parts included


  • No single coil option

  • Proprietary drip tip

  • Clunky “RDA” mode

  • Minor – <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice creep issues

  • Minor – can’t drip effectively through the drip tip


Everything about the Turbo-L makes it perfect for beginners but I would suggest this to the more advanced and veteran crowds due to how build dependent it is. As someone that makes their own exotic coils, I give this RDTA a single thumb up for the abundant flavor and anti-spitback shield. I would have given it two thumbs up but the awkward RDA mode and the proprietary drip tip hold me back. If you have a Goon (or something similar like the 25mm Kennedy 2-post) and want something that’s great for building but also good for on-the-go give the Turbo RDTA-L a shot.

Make sure to follow me on Facebook or Twitter for upcoming reviews and more! Also check out my last review on the X-Mini if you missed it!

Let me know if there is additional information that you would like to see and/or your thoughts on the product and the review. Thanks for reading!

submitted by /u/darksun773
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Chinese Customs Seizes 600 Tons of Smuggled US E-Liquid (Not sure why, but I kinda like the idea of US juice being smuggled into China)

<img src="” alt=”Chinese Customs Seizes 600 Tons of Smuggled US E-liquid (Not sure why, but I kinda like the idea of US <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice being smuggled into China)” title=”Chinese Customs Seizes 600 Tons of Smuggled US E-liquid (Not sure why, but I kinda like the idea of US <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice being smuggled into China)” /> submitted by /u/mstave
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India Health Ministry Considers Vape Ban After ‘Expert’ Committee Declares E-Cigs ‘Potentially Lethal’

<img src="” alt=”India Health Ministry Considers Vape Ban After ‘Expert’ Committee Declares e-cigs ‘Potentially Lethal'” title=”India Health Ministry Considers Vape Ban After ‘Expert’ Committee Declares e-cigs ‘Potentially Lethal'” /> submitted by /u/mstave
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New to E cigs, question about liquid

So, forgive me for my ignorance, i just started smoking e cigs recently and know little about it I'm about to finish the liquid i was given with the e cig so i went to buy a new one. I ended up getting the Blu Fill Blueberry liquid and i wanted to know if i can use it safely with my Wismec Presa TC or if i should be aware of anything before putting the liquid in the cigarette. Also forgive me for the grammar, i suck at expressing myself in english

submitted by /u/Zen6694
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Daily Questions Thread [08-22-2017]

If you have questions about <a href="<a href="”>eliquid_c_7.html”>juice, vendors, mods or anything vaping related, please feel free to ask them below.

Here are some helpful links-

Starter Guide

Everything I wish I knew about rebuildables

Infographic that every new user should see courtesy of /u/emergenl

/u/Jimmith's beginners guide to vaping

submitted by <a href="”> /u/Automoderator
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Bench Test Results: Samsung 22P(M)…underrated but a poor choice for vaping

Bottom Line: While this is a classically underrated Samsung cell it has a low current rating combined with only moderate capacity. It is a poor choice for vapers as there are much better cells available with more capacity at the same current rating and/or a much higher current rating.

I only tested this cell because it is being used in some fake Samsung 25R cells. The 22P is easily identified by the four equally spaced radial lines in the venting disk (see photo below). The 25R does not have any radial lines on the venting disk.

NOTE: Other Samsung cells might have these radial lines too.

The 22P’s I tested are from the Malaysia factory (“M” on the right end of the first line of printing on the wrap with “SDIEM” below it). I am rating the 22P(M) cell at 14A and 2100mAh. Its maximum vaping amps (MVA) limit is 15A, limited by voltage sag.

The two cells that were tested were purchased by me for that reason.

Test results, discharge graph, photos: <a href="”>

All my test results to date: <a href="”>

submitted by /u/Mooch315
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